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click for CEDAR FENCES

CEDAR WOOD FENCE INSTALLATION

ITEMS YOU MAY NEED TO BEGIN INSTALLATION OF YOUR FENCE

Boards / Panels & Posts, Power Saw, Post Hole Digger, Small Axe, Steel Tape Measure, Hammer Gloves, Marking Pencil, Work or Hatchet, Nails or Screws, Hand Saw, Gravel, Sand, Ready-Mix Concrete, Level, Wood Chisel, Tamping Rod  

FENCE LAYOUT - MARKING POST LOCATIONS

Generally, posts are set between 6 ft to 8 ft apart. Post spacing depends on the Style and type of fence you have designed or purchased., the grade of the site, the use of the fence, and other such considerations. The corner or end post should be set first. Extend a string-line from the corner or end post to the next corner or end post so all the intermediate posts can be aligned along that sting-line.

Mark each location of the post hole with a temporary stake making sure that the post location is accurate. The final result of your project the strength and longevity of your fence relies great deal on the installation of your post.

 

FENCE POSTS SETTING

Wood Posts are usually set with about  35% of the length (approximate rule of thumb) in ground. Corner and End Posts may be set slightly longer in ground as it will carry most of the weight and wind stress.

With ordinary post hole digger, dig the post holes straight, of correct depth and width where the stakes are marked. The holes should be slightly larger at the bottom to allow proper anchoring.

Put large stone or two shovels full of gravel in the bottom of each hole to allow drainage and to avoid excessive moisture build up at the bottom of each post.

Cedar is naturally insect and decay resistant. Other woods may require that you apply wood preservative on the buried portion, soaking overnight is recommended for proper saturation.

 

The posts are set with either compacted dirt or set in pre-mixed, cement concrete mix (readily available at home center stores in 5 & 10 lb bags). Don’t forget to put gravel at the bottom first as mentioned above. Be sure that the posts are “plum”, straight upright. This can be checked with a regular level. Attach temporary brace supports to the leveled posts until the concrete dries and fully hardens in place, (usually requires several days to fully harden). Thorough tamping is required if using compact dirt method.  In both methods, at the top, a slight mounding rising around to the post (slope down away from post) would prevent water from accumulating around the post and would flow away from the post, for long-term stability. Ensure at all times that the upright alignment of the post does not change while working around it. In all cases it is desirable to set the corner, end and gate posts in concrete for strength and stability for the panel weight and wind load. After posts are firmly set strong add fence panels.

 

ATTACHING RAILS OR FENCE PANELS TO POSTS

There are four common methods.

  1. The rails are nailed to the top of the post on surface. This is an ideal installation for many types of fencing styles, particularly, picket panels and spaced board panels. The top rail can always be joined to another rail in the center of a post in this method
  2. The rails or fence panels can be grooved into the posts on the back side known also as mortised method. The mortised joint is even neater than the butt joint, but you must cut a mortise into the post for this joint.
  3. The butt joint is one of the common methods to use. The butt joint is a little more difficult to make but is often better.
  4. Finally, there are metal brackets available at your local home center that allow you to attach the rails or panels on the side of the posts or in the backside of the post.